Palio!

Italy’s myriad festivals have always held a fascination for me, but none more so than the Palio of Siena. Three times around a medieval square of unusual shape, this 90-second horse race ignites passions and rivalries that date back centuries. Having read as much as I could find on the subject, I arrived in Siena on Saturday 12th August 2000 to experience for myself i giorni del Palio, the days of the Palio.

Prior to my visit I had written to all 17 contrade in the hope of arranging a visit to their museums. Before leaving for Italy I received an invitation from the Contrada of Drago, the dragon, to visit their museum on Sunday 13th August after the batterie in the Campo, when the horses are run in heats before a final 10 are chosen to participate in the race itself.

The city was alive with the sounds and sights of the Palio as I headed towards the district of the Contrada of Drago. Flags of various contrade flew from every building announcing the particular allegiance of its owner, and young men could be heard down narrow streets practising their drumming technique for the magnificent historical parade in medieval costume that precedes the race itself.

Meeting the Dragons

As arranged, I met Walter Benocci on the steps leading from Piazza Matteotti to the museum of the Contrada of Drago. Walter is the archivist of the contrada and has written detailed descriptions of all the Palios won by Drago since 1650, (35 at that time) and it was his job to show visitors around their museum.

As well as being the name of the race, the palio is also the name given to the painted banner awarded to the victor. Each ‘rag’ as the banner is called locally, is kept in its own showcase, and as we moved through the centuries from 1650 to 1993 (Drago’s latest victory at that time) Walter brought each one to life with his passionate descriptions.

Thankfully, having read so much about the Palio before coming to Siena I could at least ask pertinent questions and make reasonable observations, and Walter and I hit it off right away. I was keen to learn more and Walter seemed delighted with my interest and enthusiasm for their festival, which is apparently unusual in someone not from Siena nor even an Italian.

Although Drago had not been chosen to participate in this Palio, they still held a contrada dinner on each of the four nights leading up to the race, and I was invited to join Walter and the other Dragaioli that evening for a meal under the stars and in the shadow of the great church of San Domenico, which sits in the heart of the district of Drago. During dinner, Walter introduced me to his friends and to their Priore (President), Dr Carlo Rossi, who was pleased to hear of my interest in the Palio and the contrada of Siena. Everyone went out of their way to make me feel very welcome, and I was asked to join them on their stand in the Campo to watch a trial race on Monday morning.