Valsugana: Italy’s ‘Middle Earth’

The Valsugana begins a few kilometres east of Trento and is the doorway to a real ‘Middle Earth’. A fertile plateau dotted with vineyards and in the distance high mountains, snow-covered all year round – heaven for skiers. Castles look down from the hills and bell towers with their onion-shaped domes rise above the towns. The magical scenery is reflected in the waters of rivers, alpine lakes and fast-running streams.

A holiday here is characterised by fresh, clean air, breathtaking views, walks and open air activities. But there is also plenty of culture, history and great food. From the ancient Romans to the First World War, events and peoples have left their mark. In winter it is a magnet for skiers and winter sports enthusiasts, while in summer the shores of the lakes are packed with tourists swimming, boating or simply getting a tan.

Trentino’s Largest Lake

The geography of the area is unusual. Two lakes, Caldonazzo and Levico, are separated by a long narrow ridge known as the Tenna. Coming from Trento you first see the larger Lake Caldonazzo surrounded by gentle slopes with wide roads along its shores. It is the biggest lake situated entirely in Trentino, 4735 m. long, 1870 m. wide and with an average depth of 27 m. Many small villages face its blue waters, such as San Cristoforo al Lago, Calceranica, Tenna and the largest, Caldonazzo. It is a typical Trentino village lying in a broad valley, its narrow streets lined with old houses with frescoed walls, small windows and massive wooden shutters. Smoke rises from the chimney stacks, its evocative scent blending with the sweet smells from the apple trees which dot the valley.

Opposite the 13th-century church dedicated to San Sisto in the historic centre of the town stands the crenellated silhouette of the Magnifica Corte Trapp where at one time justice was meted out. The Corte di Caldonazzo, or Castle Trapp, was first mentioned in the 11th century and has been the possession of the von Trapp family since 1462.

Shades of Northern Climes

On the other side of the Tenna ridge is Lake Levico, smaller but more attractive (it is 2840 m. long, 900 m wide and has an average depth of 11 m). It is long and narrow and, being surrounded for the most part by wooded hills, it has the feeling of a Norwegian fjord. The small cave-like opening in the rocks at the side of the lake is in fact the ancient ice-house. In the past, as winter came to an end, the ice of the lake was piled up here to preserve food for the rest of the year.

Many parts of the lake, indicated by signs, are protected to preserve the biotopi or areas of great natural value, such as the cane-brakes. The lake is rich in fish, especially pike and carp, and fishing is one of main activities.

Lake Levico has only one shore suitable for bathing but it is very picturesque. It is separated from the road and hotels by a path through trees and meadows. There are benches where you can sit and relax, or you can simply walk, or try to feed the ducks (make sure they are in a good mood!). Along this lake shore runs Via Segantini where the majority of the hotels and a large sporting complex are located. You can walk around the rest of the lake where the paths are narrower. Here in autumn, people go in search of mushrooms.