Vino in Veritas IV - Il sud - the south and islands

Our stroll south of Rome takes in some of Italy’s best coastal scenery: high steep cliffs; volcanic cones – some dormant, some active; spectacular views both inland and coastal.

The dramatic change in the climate affects the terrain, the houses, the people and above all, the grapes. Until just 30 years ago, the south’s wine reputation was poor ‘vino da tavola’ – earthy, odd, treacly and tar-like. The grapes were unique, unpronounceable and derived from viticulture practiced from as far back as 1500 BC and influenced by the Greeks, Phoenicians, Egyptians, Spanish and Romans. Apart from Puglia, the terrain is hilly and mountainous, and soils mainly volcanic or granitic. It is the home of regular earthquakes and the live volcanoes of Vesuvius, Etna and Stromboli. The noon sun is uncompromising and there is a shortage of water. What chance for quality?

Wines described as ‘disagreeably rough’ by travellers in the 19th and early 20th centuries, were protected in the 1960s by vast EU subsidies that formed the famous wine lake of Europe. It was the base wine for vermouth; it was the blender for French or German wines weak in colour and alcoholic strength. Great vats of this wine were distilled into industrial alcohol.

The six regions produced 40-50% of Italy’s total of wine output, but only produced 7% of its quality wines. Surprisingly, white wines dominated in this very hot dry region.

But all that has changed in the past 15 years…

Calabria, Campania and Basilicata

These regions all have potential as yet to be unleashed.

Campania is the gateway to southern Italy. It is steeped in history and the Romans considered Falernum the most treasured wine of the Empire. The wine area on the coast as you approach Naples is now Falerno del Massico DOC. The best wine is a red made with the Aglianico grape introduced by the Greeks 2000 years ago.

South of Naples the two tiny islands of Ischia and Capri make small quantities of red, white and rosè for local consumption.

On the mainland, Mt Vesuvius with its volcanic, rich soils, dominates the area. On the bay side of the volcano, Vesuvio DOC is famous for its Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio wines. There are various explanations for the origin of this name ‘The Tears of Christ’. I prefer to believe the one where ancient villagers, on observing the occasional eruptions of lava streams flowing down the slopes through their vineyards, explained to youngsters that sometimes Christ is sad and this is Him crying. (Remember the proximity to the Pope in these areas).

Whilst strolling through Pompeii, 200 wine bars are still recognisable in the ruins. Eight bars stand in line outside the public baths to slake the enormous thirst of Pompeiians on leaving their hot rooms. Of the 32 villas discovered around the countryside near Vesuvius, we know that 29 of them produced wine (up to A.D.79 that is!).

On the eastern side of Vesuvius are the DOCs: Taurasi for reds, and Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino for whites. Taurasi, as made by Antonio Mastroberardino in Avellino, is considered to be the Barolo of the South. Well worth searching for.

As we move south along the majestic coast from Sorrento to Amalfi then Salerno, it is the lemon and not the grape that dominates the hillsides. Every style of lemon liquoroso drink is available, but don’t expect wonders from the wines.

Calabria’s best known wine is Cirió on the Ionian coast, both red and white. Basilicata’s best is Aglianico del Vulture, a red that needs ageing. In both these regions in the villages, the local sweet wine can surprise you, but neither region produces anything vinously memorable. Enjoy the stunning scenery instead.